Inspired designs from the East
Oprah Winfrey! No, this story is not about her but someone who has her to thank for making him take the plunge and head to the Big Apple.
It was a circuitous route – from Singapore where Prabal Gurung was born, back to Nepal where his Nepali family came from, to New Delhi, followed by a working-travel stint that included Sydney and London before finding "home-base" in New York (for now).
"One of the most gratifying moments was when Oprah Winfrey wore a design of mine on the holiday cover of O: The Oprah Magazine. It was after watching one of her shows while still in Nepal that I decided to take a chance and move to New York to attend Parsons (School of Design)," explains fashion designer Gurung via e-mail.
"I continue to watch her show to hear her incredible words of advice and all of the inspirational stories she has to share. In a way, she has served as a life mentor and educator for me." The first of his "who-designed-that-gorgeous-dress" moments was in April last year. Actress Zoe Saldana (of Avatar fame) walked the red carpet in a geometric-fold chilli red frock from his eponymous label at the Star Trek premiere.
However, the worldwide Gurung blitz really kicked off when America's First Lady Michelle Obama wore his black and white sleeveless dress with brush-painted roses last March. She wore it to the event in which she donated the gown she wore for the Inaugural Ball to the Smithsonian Institute. It was designed by another emerging designer, Taiwanese-born Jason Wu.
"The first time Michelle Obama wore a dress of mine, I was away in Paris. I found out she was wearing my signature dress to the event at the Smithsonian when I received a tweet. I was so thrilled I didn't even know how to express my excitement. This was a moment I had hoped for since the launching of my collection so it was enormously rewarding," adds Gurung.
And apparently, lightning can sometimes strike twice. Last May, at the White House Correspondents' Association Dinner, to be exact.
"I didn't know if any moment could rival the emotions I had the first time, but then, it absolutely did. The signature red gown she wore then was so striking on her and made such a statement of confidence that I swelled with pride and was completely speechless."
Mrs Obama it seems, has made it a point to highlight Asian designers or designers who are just emerging. Apart from Gurung and Wu, she has also worn a few outfits from Thai-born American-based designer Thakoon Panichgul.
"The First Lady is so modern in her style and appreciates well-made designs no matter who designs them. As every First Lady in the past, she respects the brilliance of an Oscar de la Renta cocktail dress or a Carolina Herrera gown, but she also supports the new guard of designers. I fully embrace her approach to supporting designers of all generations," enthuses Gurung.
But even before Mrs Obama, many leading actresses were already wearing his creations.
"Thanks to the relationship I have with many of the stylists in the industry, I came to dress many of Hollywood's leading ladies. It has been a nice range of actresses, from the up-and-coming Carey Mulligan to well-established names like Demi Moore," says Gurung.
But, if it's just about who wears his dresses, then Gurung probably won't last very long in the industry. However, he's making big waves on the fashion scene for all the right reasons. Fashion critics and editors, celebrities and other designers are not just raving about him but standing to attention.
Some have gone so far as to say he's this century's Yves Saint Laurent, with a more current take. Even Vogue's Anna Wintour has "endorsed" him.
In a recent AP interview, Vogue magazine fashion news director Mark Holgate called Gurung "wise and talented" for someone fairly young: "He really knows how to make clothes, and he makes them beautifully."
Glamour deputy fashion director Sasha Iglehart says Gurung has his own direction and a very recognisable look. She stops short of calling him "the next great thing".
He's already had three collections with his third this February being his first proper runway show. This Saturday, his Spring 2011 collection makes its debut at the New York Fashion Week.
It was sheer hard work and determination that put Gurung where he is now. He also credits his upbringing in Nepal for shaping his career as a designer, "its rich culture, beautiful topography and the family values that were instilled since I was a young boy."
The designer, who is coy about revealing his age, was born in Singapore because his parents moved there soon after their marriage. They were of different castes and, in the 70s, such unions were not the norm and not encouraged. The family returned to Nepal when Gurung was in his teens because they thought it would be appropriate for him to be raised there. He still has relatives in Singapore and hopes to visit in the near future.
At the all-boys Catholic school in Nepal he attended, Gurung felt he was misunderstood by his peers. He found solace and joy in sketching.
"I was always interested in what the Nepalese women were wearing, from the beautifully ornate saris to the intricate head pieces. In Nepal, design is not viewed as a career, but rather, a hobby."
Gurung credits his family's support and belief in him, particularly his mother, for being his motivating force and helping him to be where he is today.
Later, Gurung enrolled in New Delhi's National Institute of Fashion Technology. He calls his stint there pivotal and it cemented his passion in design.
"The colours, culture and diversity seen throughout India will always influence my designs and who I am as a person. My apprenticeship with (fashion designer) Manish Arora has taught me how to be experimental with my designs and take a risk," he says, adding that he is obsessed with Bollywood (along with Chinese films and the Wonder Girls)!
Gurung thinks Indian designers have unique styles, and use unique fabrics and vibrant colour combinations, through which they relay the rich culture of the country.
"From my design days in India, I took with me an incredible knack for detail but it was really my days at Bill Blass (where he was design director) that I honed my craft. There, I learned to what extent draping, cutting and sewing affected each design.
"There is an element of drama which I like to give to each look, whether it be incredibly subtle or a bit more obvious at times. It is important that each piece exudes personality in some way or another," he says.
That move to New York saw him winning Best Designer in his first year at Parsons. After graduating, he worked for Donna Karan and then did two years with Cynthia Rowley before moving on to Blass.
He launched his eponymous label early last year.
"I am driven by strong, beautiful and confident women seen all over the world on the pages of international magazines, down the red carpet or walking the streets. To me, there is nothing more inspiring than effortlessly chic women who can make a statement without losing themselves."
For the coming Spring/Summer 2011 collection, Gurung is taking the brand back to its roots – sophisticated, timeless looks with a youthful relevance.
"Tilda Swinton's heroic character in (the film) I Am Love is a true representation of the woman I am designing for this season − feminine, sensual in a subtle way, intellectual and incredibly strong-willed. She truly celebrates being a woman."
Gurung feels that while being based in a fashion Mecca like New York is helpful, one can still find success being based in one's homeland.
After all not everyone can relocate to New York, London, Paris or Milan easily. Success might come at a much slower pace but "if their brand image reflects where they are from, continuing to design from there may ensure a stronger vision, undiluted by influences from other cities," he concludes.
Pictures courtesy of Prabal Gurung
Tags: Design, Fasion update, Girls, Women
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